Catalina's Medical Tour

After Catalina fell running up the three stairs to her room she squealed in that higher register signifying true pain that every parent learns to distinguish from the more typical cries and complaints that emerge daily from their children.

We iced her arm where she said it hurt and watched for swelling. When almost none appeared we decided to wait snd watch for swelling or discoloration. Over the next 24 hours she chose to use the arm less and less. By day's end she was holding the arm across her abdomen as if it were in a sling and her left wrist was noticeably larger than her right. We decided, of course, to take her to the Lennox Head Medical Centre the next morning.

We arrived at 9 am and we're told that the first appointment wasn't until 11:45 am. At this point I should have asked the obvious question, "Do you have an x-ray machine?" Instead we waited for her appointment in the public library a few blocks away, returning to be seen by a nice Scottish doctor who told us what we already knew: the arm is probably broken and needs to be x-rayed and probably "put in a plaster for some number of weeks." The best place for this to be done all at once is the public Ballina Hospital emergency room. The Lennox medical centre, it seems, is a private medical facility The cost for our "consultation" was $62.

Thankfully (and coincidentally) I had arranged a rental car for the following morning and when I called I found it was en route to Lennox Head. So I added a day to the rental, hiked over to get the car, grabbed the family back at the house, and we headed off in search of Ballina Hospital, about 15 minutes south.

We were seen at the emergency room within 15 minutes and were done and out the door with x-rays, diagnosis, and a tenporary cast within two hours. Meanwhile a surfer with a badly dislocated shoulder came, was treated, and departed as well.

There was some serious confusion as staff tried to figure out how and how much to charge us. They virtually never see anyone who does not have Medicare, the national basic insurance that covers every citizen here. We also had no phone and no permanent address, leaving their intake staff a bit perplexed. Anyway, after much discussion and a phone call or two they decided to charge us $90 for the emergency room visit and $90 for the x-ray and diagnosis (including off-site Internet review of the film by an orthopedist).

The Physiotherapy department put on a more permanent waterproof cast three
days later. After more discussion on that first day, 'physio' (Dean and Chris) decided that their charge was also $90 plus $10, "let's say," for materials. Since we'll be in another town, Yamba, in three weeks when the cast needs to come off, they agreed to remove it a half week earlier. "Let's just say that's included in the $100," said Dean. Of course they're not in the habit of billing anyone so they forgot to charge us at all on our first visit to physio.

Suffice it to say they think Americans are a bit 'off their nut' to defend our current 'system.' Doctor Lynn Davies, originally of Wales, proudly made clear that what various treatments cost is not part of her treatment decisions. She does what each patient needs and let's Medicare sort out the costs.

Most middle class and wealthy people also buy private insurance (which is constantly being hawked on the telly) so that they can choose surgeons or cancer treatments if it ever comes to that.

Anyway, Catalina's cast is bright purple and will only be on until June 7 at 11 am.

"Ta"

Krazy Kirra, Crowded Coolangatta, Cozy Cabarita, Peaceful Pottsville

We rented a car over the last three days so we could explore the areas surrounding Lennox Head. It was simply good luck that I already had a reservation when Catalina needed to go to the hospital in Ballina as the cars are delivered individually as needed to Lennox Head. We'll return it today after taking her back for her waterproof 'plaster.'

Anyway, here are some thoughts on the places we managed to visit.

The immediate hinterland of Lennox Head is all rolling hills covered with cow pastures, macadamia orchards, and small patches of subtropical forest. It's lovely country and there's a lot of it within just a few miles of Lennox, Byron Bay, and Skennars Head. In a few years, after the Australian real estate bubble has popped, I may be searching for a farmer willing to sell me a half hectare to put a small house upon.

Evans head is a very small and modest little town to the south of Ballina (which is 15 minutes south of Lennox). Few luxury homes there yet. Most are still wooden shacks or staid brick constructions. There are lovely beaches and a high headland plus, like many NSW coastal towns, it has a river mouth and marina with a few small commercial fishing vessels. Lennox Head has no river or marina, but we'll experience that when we return to Yamba. At the all-volunteer marine rescue headquarters you get a great view of the coast and hills in the interior. Eight elderly veterans in folding chairs sat facing the sea like faithful guard dogs.

Lismore is a regional center with a university at the intersection of two rivers. I found it disappointingly grungy and run down. There are a number of historic brick abd stone structures in the CBD but their appearance is badly marred by the inexpensive and gaudy marquees mounted in front of every building. This gives the town the haphazard look of a third world business center. You have to stand way back and look past these boxy facades to notice their former glory.

Byron Bay was just as crowded and chaotic this time. The hippies, trust fund wanderers, artists, and hitchhilkers abound. What's more, we experienced traffic jams heading out of and into this hectic little town. This on a Thursday mid-morning during the autumn. It must be shocking during summer holidays. I can see how wonderful the place must have been when surfers started to invade during the 60s and 70s, but those days are long gone now.

As you head north out of Byron the observant traveller notices that the vegetation is more lush, the forest denser. You are nearing tropical Queensland.

Brunswick Heads is yet another tiny town with a river mouth and nice beaches. It has a more working class feel than some: lots of older brick homes and too much graffiti and tagging on the public spaces (this problem increasing everywhere in Australia, it seems). Along the riverfront the impressive brick Brunswick Hotel serves food and drinks on a grand patio. We shared a chocolate gelato in town.

Heading north towards Tweed Heads, Coolangatta, and Kirra, we passed through Pottsville and Cabarita. Pottsville is small still, but American-style suburban developments are coming. The little downtown is cute and it has a great little play park behind the bush vegetation backing the river and beach. The water in this little river is brilliant blue against the lovely light beige sand of the banks and beaches.

North of Pottsville we stopped at Cabarita to climb the headland and explore the beaches. It can be a good surf spot, but right now there's no swell running and a cold front and rain storms made for strong northeast onshore winds. It seemed a decent place too, but casual tourism development is clearly encroaching now.

Further north we drove into Tweed Heads and nearby Coolangatta and Kirra beaches. This area is world famous among surfers for its amazing summertime surf breaks. Sadly, the area is now part of the Gold Coast tourism madness. Towering hotels, condos, and casinos line the beaches. It's the beginning of the mess that extends into Surfers Paradise to the north. This area is so developed along the coast that it appears on the horizon like the Emerald City or some great metropolis. Think of it as Miami Beach with waves, but without Cubans, only drunken Aussie gamblers and tourists. We'd seen enough in just a few minutes and headed back south towards Lennox.

The area north of the Gold Coast is called the Sunshine Coast. While it is also more developed than the Central Coast we've been enjoying, there are many protected areas and most areas, including Noosa, have not allowed towers and large hotels. The surf is just as famous up there, but only arrives from November to April during cyclone season. Exploring that area, including massive Fraser island by 4wd, will have to wait for a future Aussie adventure.

It's been five or six days since any significant surf rolled through here. That has allowed my feet to mostly heal and now I'm anxious to surf again. Thankfully the next winter south swell is due to start pulsing in tomorrow and it looks like it'll be a solid 3-5 feet at least before it fades out.

A cold front brought our first rain in two weeks and nightime temps around 50 F. This crisp clear Saturday morning was the first time it felt like autumn to me.

PS I just received an emailing alerting me that I left my laptop in the rental car on return. This on top of me driving off and not paying for my final tank of petrol for two hours! It's easy to forget as you never pay first in small Aussie towns.

Aussie Mobile Phone Contact Info - Call Now!

We finally got ahold of a basic mobile phone. You can call us at anytime after 1:30 pm (PST), which is 6:30 am the following day in NSW.

Simply dial:

61 4 2913 7191

For example, you would dial:
0011(int. call) + 61(country code) + 4(mobile phone area code) + 2913 7191(phone number)

We can still receive voice messages via US number 818-945-4206, but we can only check these every day or two.

Finally, the cheapest way to make international calls is with int. calling 'cards' that are widely available online and can be printed immediately.

Catalina Breaks Her Arm, Again

Well, it's only a 'green stick' break, but she'll be in a cast for three weeks. More on the medical experience soon...

Family Hike to Boulder Beach

The weather continues to be amazing, even if the surf has finally dropped to nothing. My feet and back need the break anyway and I was able to rent a board for Catalina and take her out in the smaller waves this week. Here are some photos from a short hike we took from our house, over Lennox Headland, to the first beach to the south, Boulder Beach. It too is a great surf spot and is much less crowded than Lennox Head. I'll hike down there with my board when the next swell hits. That's likely to be not until next weekend. Tomorrow we're off to explore the hinterland and then on Thursday we'll check out Evan's Head or Tweed Heads. We've reserved a small rental car for the two days.

Sadly, Catalina fell while running in the rental house and we're waiting right now for her 11:45 am appointment at the Lennox Head Medical Center to be sure that she hasn't broken her arm or wrist. There's some minor swelling and she is unwilling to use her left arm and hand for much. I guess we'll get a very practical lesson in cross-cultural medicine. Since we'll have to pay upfront and then bill Blue Shield, I'm very curious what the cost will be for our visit. Anyway, don't worry about Catalina too much. It's probably just a sprain and her spirits are good.

Michael

Beach Bargain Wheels and Tunes - Family Market

We had a great time at Ballina Shire's first Child and Family Market on Saturday. It was a great success. Families brught their used children's clothing and toys. Adults paid $2 each entry. We were among the first through the door and we scored a very nice folding pram (stroller) with sunshade, a child-sized classical guitar, two cotton outfits for Sydney, thongs (flip-flops) for Sydney, water trainers (sneakers) for Catalina, and a coin purse for Catalina. Total cost: $24.50!

Gotta love a good bargain. The pram alone would cost over $100 here, if new. It'll save Shannon's back a lot of strain and has a place to cart groceries (or toys and clothes).

Now we just have to find some new guitar strings. Ironically, my guess is they'll cost $15, more than the guitar.

Muesli, not granola

The culture here is in many ways just like home. Both countries are former English colonies, after all. But geography, and their more recent split with Britain means many things are just a little off.

There's no granola in the grocery. It's a muesli. I've gone so far as to add ilive oil and honey and bake the stuff - that's better.

Everyone says 'how ya going?' not 'how ya doing.'

Coffee is $4 a cup. Granted their workers start at $20 an hour, but it still seems 'too dear.' For that matter, surf t-shirts cost $40-50 each here. I thought $20 was a rip off back home.

Even after a whole month here I still sometimes walk to the wrong side pf an automobile. Whoops, can't drive ot from the passenger seat.

Every town has a butcher and a baker. No candlestick makers, of course. The bakers all offer delicious meat and vegetable pies alongside the sweets.

The smallest coins are worth the most, $2. Coins get progressively larger as they go down in value until you hit 50 cents. After that they revert to progressively smaller as they diminish in value. There is no silly 1 or 2 cent coin.

They too are car crazy, but there are differences. Holden makes some serious muscle cars, but there are many more hatchbacks and wagons. Subarus are everywhere.

They don't have many big campers and caravans (RVs), but they are downright competitive about their car camping gear. Nearly everyone who goes camping pulls a metal trailer full of gear. Many of these trailers ingeniously fold open to create massive, walkable tent spaces, covered patios, and complex kitchens. Most include BBQs, and surf racks and some include kegs. These things are usually towed by 4wd SUVs, of course, but many are towed by sedans, even compact cars. Most cara have tow hitches installed. I've even seen a Honda Fit and a Mazda 323 with hitches.

Everyone surfs, rides an inflatable surf mat, kayaks, or uses a boogie board. I've seen multiple examples of retired couples cruising the surf spots with his and hers longboards. I've seen and talked with women in their 50s in the line up in overhead surf. If you don't surf, you enjoy surf fishing.

Speaking of kayaks, Hobie, of Southern California, has had real success selling outrigger trimaran kayaks here. These beautiful little boats include a mast and sail, can be paddled too, and are easily broken down to be loaded on a roof rack. They must be a great way to explore all the bays, estuaries, marshes, and rivers in this area. Take a look on Google earth, for example, of the Clarence River and its tributaries. This river was largely free of watercraft until the area surroundind its outlet at Yamba. Sounds like adventure potential to me.

Eggs are not refrigerated here just like in Costa Rica. Interestingly James Beard advises to never cook an efg until it has warmed to room temperature.

Strangely, Internet connectivity is more limited and more restrictive here than in Costa Rica. Even the public library that we paid to join limits everyone, including residents, to one hour per dat amd no more than 50mb of data uploaded or downloaded per day. Just updating iPhone apps can use up an entire day's alottment. Even very fine holiday homes, places that rent for $4000/mo in the off-season and twice that in summer include no Internet.

On the other hand, their national digital TV broadcast include The PBS Newshour at 4:30pm and the best jaZ radio station I've ever heard. Meanwhile their top news station ABC (that's 'Australian Broadcast Corp.,' of course) openly reads and and displays the front page stories from all the national newspapers. There's no pretense of actual reporting. They just comment and invite talking heads on to comment. While this is true of much TV news at home too, especially with local newscasts, there is in the US a charade enacted each night wherin the 'reporters' stand in front of whichever place the print journalists have investigated. PBS, CBS, NBC, and ABC do actual investigations, but with the exception of PBS, they allocate very little in the way of resources to investigative reporting. Here in Australia in seems like they're at least honest about it. Newspapers do the real reporting.

Coffee costs a minimum of $4 a cup and the only donuts are cinnamon and sugar.

Surfer's Journal, Lennox Head

Thursday, May 10

I was told by Grant, a neighbor, that no surf was expected for today. From the kitchen while making my coffee, however,  I could hear solid waves breaking. A glance out the bedroom window showed a few longboarders getting shoulder high waves in offshore winds right in front of the house. A quick walk to the beach confirmed that Lennox point was working surprising well with the low tide and strong winds. It was a bit inconsistent, but the sets were easily head high and there were only five surfers at the point. Seems everyone had surfed themselves silly over the last week and finally needed to get to work now that surf has dropped. I think the right strategy here will be to surf the beach break on most busy weekends and surf the point on weekdays when there are fewer surfers about. Still, the crowds are mellow compared to Southern California, even when the surf is pumping.

Ran back to the house to suit up and kiss the family for good luck. Put on the 3/2mm full suit because of the strong winds and grabbed the small wave 6’2” Becker pod shape because the tide was rising and the sets inconsistent. Within minutes I had grabbed a brilliant, glassy, head high set wave and chatted up the four other surfers: two mellow tourists from Germany and two middle-aged locals, one of whom was on too small a board. The net result is that over the next hour and half or two I managed to snag well over twenty waves! A few of these were classic Lennox peelers and, while I rode them well, I can still see in my mind’s eye how I could have ridden them deeper or hit off the bowl sections harder. My surfing skills are progressing rapidly. When I was 30, I didn’t think I’d still be improving at 42.

Eventually the tide got too high and the waves became too fat and slow. Moreover, inside my wetsuit it must have been 100 degrees. What I really need here is a long sleeve spring suit (short legs) or short sleeve full suit. My spring suit is a bit cool after an hour in the water, but the full suit is way too much for the next few weeks. It’s also unseasonably warm here. Today, for the third day in a row, temperatures will be well above normal. It approached 78 degrees yesterday right at the beach and the same is predicted for today.

Climbing out over the barnacle-covered rocks I found myself in some minor trouble for the second time in two sessions. It seems I have no problem getting into the surf here, but getting out is incredibly tricky, especially on lower tides. The boulders are everywhere. At low tide they stretch for as much as twenty meters from the shore. My cut and punctured feet are testament to my troubles. I noted one channel near the house for future use on low tides, but right at the point the only option seems to be to carefully time a quick climb out on the steep rocks right by the break. I would have made it out unscathed yesterday, my timing was good, but unfortunately I got my leash wrapped around a rock and a small wave hung me up and sent me stumbling on the barnacles. Next time I’ll have to take off the leash before attempted an exit. Also, it’s almost time to buy more Neosporin with Pain Relief. I’m going through a quarter tube a day.

Nevertheless, this is an amazing, magical place to surf: warm blue water, incredible waves, friendly locals.

Update: 5/12/12  

Surf has dropped to very small. It's time for a much needed break. The surf in Costa Rica almost never dropped and as a result I ended up with tendonitis in my elbow and a sore neck. The weather continues to be fabulous. We're having a really relaxing time. Yesterday we rode the public bus system to Byron Bay to explore a bit. Shannon and I shared excellent fish and chips on the main beach while the kids ran screaming about the play park. A nice day, but we much prefer Lennox Head and its quieter lifestyle. At 11am in Byron Bay a group of dropouts was already getting loaded and menacing on the beach. There's also way too much for sale in Byron Bay. Seems a bit like Thailand's tourist towns, with its open air restaurants and shops for of tourist trinkets and t-shirts.

Last Days at Scotts Head, First Days in Lennox Head

Well, we got the camper back to Britz in Ballina without incident right before the 3pm deadline and then I took a public bus back to Lennox Head after rushing Shannon and the kids into our little beach house right at the 2pm check-in time. The houses location is great. The view of the ocean from the bedroom and bedroom deck is lovely and the deck downstairs and little living room are open and airy and pleasant. On the downside the cookware is awful and the beds are pretty close to shot. Now we know why it's the cheapest holiday house in town. Still, it's a great deal for what it is and we're all very excited about living so close to the beach. The kids also enjoy having their own room - with three beds, no less.

The surf gods have smiled on me again. One of the best swells of the year arrived on the same day as we did. I let it drop down to about 6-8 feet before getting up the courage to paddle out this morning. The winds blow offshore at this time of year until about 11:30am and the surf wraps beautifully around Lennox Headland. Crowds were small today, though they were huge yesterday (it was a Queensland holiday). I had to work out some normal initial trepidation about the new spot, it's huge waves, the rocks and boulders that line the break, and the locals. Once I was in the wonderfully warm water and paddling over gorgeous peeling breakers, I realized I had nothing to fear. I'm good enough now to handle this place and it's going to be great for my surfing abilities, and great fun. My best ride today was about 6 feet high, completely smooth and bowling, and must have rolled on for 70 or 80 meters.

A few photos of our last days in Scotts Head and our first days in Lennox follow:

 

My kids are great travelers. Sydney often thoughtfully watches
the scenery fly by. Catalina reads and plays math games on the  Kindle.

The view from the "master" bedroom. Hard to tell but the wave
in the photo is about 8 feet tall.

This is where I paddled out today.

My best wave today looked a lot like this one, I think, and was right
about where this one broke. The wave peels in to shore for ages from here.