We rented a car over the last three days so we could explore the areas surrounding Lennox Head. It was simply good luck that I already had a reservation when Catalina needed to go to the hospital in Ballina as the cars are delivered individually as needed to Lennox Head. We'll return it today after taking her back for her waterproof 'plaster.'
Anyway, here are some thoughts on the places we managed to visit.
The immediate hinterland of Lennox Head is all rolling hills covered with cow pastures, macadamia orchards, and small patches of subtropical forest. It's lovely country and there's a lot of it within just a few miles of Lennox, Byron Bay, and Skennars Head. In a few years, after the Australian real estate bubble has popped, I may be searching for a farmer willing to sell me a half hectare to put a small house upon.
Evans head is a very small and modest little town to the south of Ballina (which is 15 minutes south of Lennox). Few luxury homes there yet. Most are still wooden shacks or staid brick constructions. There are lovely beaches and a high headland plus, like many NSW coastal towns, it has a river mouth and marina with a few small commercial fishing vessels. Lennox Head has no river or marina, but we'll experience that when we return to Yamba. At the all-volunteer marine rescue headquarters you get a great view of the coast and hills in the interior. Eight elderly veterans in folding chairs sat facing the sea like faithful guard dogs.
Lismore is a regional center with a university at the intersection of two rivers. I found it disappointingly grungy and run down. There are a number of historic brick abd stone structures in the CBD but their appearance is badly marred by the inexpensive and gaudy marquees mounted in front of every building. This gives the town the haphazard look of a third world business center. You have to stand way back and look past these boxy facades to notice their former glory.
Byron Bay was just as crowded and chaotic this time. The hippies, trust fund wanderers, artists, and hitchhilkers abound. What's more, we experienced traffic jams heading out of and into this hectic little town. This on a Thursday mid-morning during the autumn. It must be shocking during summer holidays. I can see how wonderful the place must have been when surfers started to invade during the 60s and 70s, but those days are long gone now.
As you head north out of Byron the observant traveller notices that the vegetation is more lush, the forest denser. You are nearing tropical Queensland.
Brunswick Heads is yet another tiny town with a river mouth and nice beaches. It has a more working class feel than some: lots of older brick homes and too much graffiti and tagging on the public spaces (this problem increasing everywhere in Australia, it seems). Along the riverfront the impressive brick Brunswick Hotel serves food and drinks on a grand patio. We shared a chocolate gelato in town.
Heading north towards Tweed Heads, Coolangatta, and Kirra, we passed through Pottsville and Cabarita. Pottsville is small still, but American-style suburban developments are coming. The little downtown is cute and it has a great little play park behind the bush vegetation backing the river and beach. The water in this little river is brilliant blue against the lovely light beige sand of the banks and beaches.
North of Pottsville we stopped at Cabarita to climb the headland and explore the beaches. It can be a good surf spot, but right now there's no swell running and a cold front and rain storms made for strong northeast onshore winds. It seemed a decent place too, but casual tourism development is clearly encroaching now.
Further north we drove into Tweed Heads and nearby Coolangatta and Kirra beaches. This area is world famous among surfers for its amazing summertime surf breaks. Sadly, the area is now part of the Gold Coast tourism madness. Towering hotels, condos, and casinos line the beaches. It's the beginning of the mess that extends into Surfers Paradise to the north. This area is so developed along the coast that it appears on the horizon like the Emerald City or some great metropolis. Think of it as Miami Beach with waves, but without Cubans, only drunken Aussie gamblers and tourists. We'd seen enough in just a few minutes and headed back south towards Lennox.
The area north of the Gold Coast is called the Sunshine Coast. While it is also more developed than the Central Coast we've been enjoying, there are many protected areas and most areas, including Noosa, have not allowed towers and large hotels. The surf is just as famous up there, but only arrives from November to April during cyclone season. Exploring that area, including massive Fraser island by 4wd, will have to wait for a future Aussie adventure.
It's been five or six days since any significant surf rolled through here. That has allowed my feet to mostly heal and now I'm anxious to surf again. Thankfully the next winter south swell is due to start pulsing in tomorrow and it looks like it'll be a solid 3-5 feet at least before it fades out.
A cold front brought our first rain in two weeks and nightime temps around 50 F. This crisp clear Saturday morning was the first time it felt like autumn to me.
PS I just received an emailing alerting me that I left my laptop in the rental car on return. This on top of me driving off and not paying for my final tank of petrol for two hours! It's easy to forget as you never pay first in small Aussie towns.
