Thursday, May 10
I was told by Grant, a neighbor, that no surf was expected for
today. From the kitchen while making my coffee, however, I
could hear solid waves breaking. A glance out the bedroom window showed a few
longboarders getting shoulder high waves in offshore winds right in front of
the house. A quick walk to the beach confirmed that Lennox point was working
surprising well with the low tide and strong winds. It was a bit inconsistent,
but the sets were easily head high and there were only five surfers at the
point. Seems everyone had surfed themselves silly over the last week and
finally needed to get to work now that surf has dropped. I think the right
strategy here will be to surf the beach break on most busy weekends and surf
the point on weekdays when there are fewer surfers about. Still, the crowds are
mellow compared to Southern California, even when the surf is pumping.
Ran back to the house to suit up and kiss the family for
good luck. Put on the 3/2mm full suit because of the strong winds and grabbed
the small wave 6’2” Becker pod shape because the tide was rising and the sets
inconsistent. Within minutes I had grabbed a brilliant, glassy, head high set
wave and chatted up the four other surfers: two mellow tourists from Germany
and two middle-aged locals, one of whom was on too small a board. The net
result is that over the next hour and half or two I managed to snag well over
twenty waves! A few of these were classic Lennox peelers and, while I rode them
well, I can still see in my mind’s eye how I could have ridden them deeper or
hit off the bowl sections harder. My surfing skills are progressing rapidly.
When I was 30, I didn’t think I’d still be improving at 42.
Eventually the tide got too high and the waves became too
fat and slow. Moreover, inside my wetsuit it must have been 100 degrees. What I
really need here is a long sleeve spring suit (short legs) or short sleeve full
suit. My spring suit is a bit cool after an hour in the water, but the full
suit is way too much for the next few weeks. It’s also unseasonably warm here.
Today, for the third day in a row, temperatures will be well above normal. It
approached 78 degrees yesterday right at the beach and the same is predicted
for today.
Climbing out over the barnacle-covered rocks I found myself
in some minor trouble for the second time in two sessions. It seems I have no
problem getting into the surf here, but getting out is incredibly tricky,
especially on lower tides. The boulders are everywhere. At low tide they
stretch for as much as twenty meters from the shore. My cut and punctured feet
are testament to my troubles. I noted one channel near the house for future use
on low tides, but right at the point the only option seems to be to carefully
time a quick climb out on the steep rocks right by the break. I would have made
it out unscathed yesterday, my timing was good, but unfortunately I got my
leash wrapped around a rock and a small wave hung me up and sent me stumbling
on the barnacles. Next time I’ll have to take off the leash before attempted an
exit. Also, it’s almost time to buy more Neosporin with Pain Relief. I’m
going through a quarter tube a day.
Nevertheless, this is an amazing, magical place to surf: warm blue water, incredible waves, friendly locals.
Update: 5/12/12
Surf has dropped to very small. It's time for a much needed break. The surf in Costa Rica almost never dropped and as a result I ended up with tendonitis in my elbow and a sore neck. The weather continues to be fabulous. We're having a really relaxing time. Yesterday we rode the public bus system to Byron Bay to explore a bit. Shannon and I shared excellent fish and chips on the main beach while the kids ran screaming about the play park. A nice day, but we much prefer Lennox Head and its quieter lifestyle. At 11am in Byron Bay a group of dropouts was already getting loaded and menacing on the beach. There's also way too much for sale in Byron Bay. Seems a bit like Thailand's tourist towns, with its open air restaurants and shops for of tourist trinkets and t-shirts.
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