This video was filmed last March, but it'll give you a good idea of what the surf is like here. It's dropped right now, but when we arrived about a week ago this is almost exactly what I surfed and saw. Those of you who surf can see how easy the wave is, but it still has hollow places and fast sections. Great fun.
Today is another day of surf rest. We're off to the farmer's truck to buy produce and to the surf shop to drop off my board for repair. Pray for surf! Collectively we can make it happen, I just know it.
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