Great Waves Lately!

Yesterday morning I got two of the best waves of my life (out of a total of about 10 good rides). One macker elicited hoots from fellow surfers and included three big roundhouse turns off the top. On the other I got in super deep and put the brakes on. Came so close to being fully shacked, but also came super close to being pitched onto those gnarly rocks. Got a long ride after being blasted out of that hollow section. I can't do a proper floater to save my life or it would have been even longer.

I continue to be amazed at how easy Lennox Point is to surf, even when it's as big as 6 or 7 ft. Most of the crowds are smallish, except on weekends, and the vast majority of locals are mellow. There's rarely a nasty current. I've only been dropped in on once this week. It really is surfing heaven, especially now that I've got enough wetsuit! We've just booked on final week in this same awesome apartment so there's no more travel for us, save the drive to the Brissie airport and a night in an expensive Novotel.

Today wasn't nearly as good, but Shannon and the kids showed up to snap some photos. I surfed pretty badly today but there are a couple of videos below anyway. Too bad she wasn't out there yesterday. I really was ripping. 

Happy Children!

Shannon shot this from the living room!

Man! It was good yesterday.

They are silly.

That's me on the right on a small wave this morning.

I could have ridden some of these waves better, but it's still fun (and educational) to watch the videos and, yes, that's Catalina you here yelling on that one little wave. I was just about five or ten feet off the rocks where they were sitting. So fun. Unfortunately those same rocks sliced right through my best leash today, ending my session and sending me off to get a new one. The barnacles really are as sharp as razors.